Wednesday, May 13, 2009
would you eat grease
Hi there the company I work for is airconnected lubricants. I know it might sound like a funny name. But the reason we called it so, is because we supply oils and lubricants to the aviation industry as well as the air industry.
Back to my story did you know that my company supplies food grade lubricants to all major food manufacturers, the type of lubricant we supply is called Shell Cassida Lubricants. These lubricants all bear the Kosher and Halaal stamps of approval across the world.
We supply a Cassida Chain 1000 lubricants that would have to be used by food industry that would manufacture food via chain feeds. Then there is the Cassida CR46 which is an air compressor lubricant for the machines in the food industry that would need air in the process,
Next we have Cassida RLS1 and RLS2 which is a grease used in the food industry this grease is for lightly loaded gear boxes that are grease lubricated, Then there is the Cassida EPS2 grease this is an extreme pressure grease. This grease is recommended for use on plain and rolling element bearings, Joints ,Linkages and slides. it is also recommended for a wide range of applications, including roller element bearings as well as clay.
Then we have the Cassida GL150/GL220/GLGL320 and the GL460 These are lubricants used in enclosed Gearboxes in the food industry, and is also intended for use where Equipment manufactures Food Packaging. These oils are a high performance, anti wear gear lubricant. Specially designed for the lubrication of enclosed gears in the beverage processing industry and the food industry. Now comes the CassidaHF15/HF32/HF46/HF68. These fluids are Hydraulic Fluids. They are a high performance , anti wear multi purpose lubricant used in Hydraulic systems, Hydrostatic gears, plain and anti friction bearings, General purpose lubrication including light duty gearboxes and it is also used as a circulating oil in systems.
Finally we have the Cassida Fluid PL this is a penetrating fluid used where the acces is difficult at lubrication points, All of these products are tasteless and have a neutral odour,
The reason why these lubricants and fluids were designed is because the food industry cant have every item on their agenda of manufacture causing the customers to get sick in cases of contamination by oil that is not edible. Now I dont mean you must go and take a handful of grease and eat it, But the general idea is there that if you accidentally consumed of the grease it would not be harmful to any human or animal
There you have some insight to our products we supply.
I hope this can help anyone looking to buy of these products
If you require any other form of lubricant be it food grade or just normal lubricants. Fell free to leave me a message and i will get back to you
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
Back to my story did you know that my company supplies food grade lubricants to all major food manufacturers, the type of lubricant we supply is called Shell Cassida Lubricants. These lubricants all bear the Kosher and Halaal stamps of approval across the world.
We supply a Cassida Chain 1000 lubricants that would have to be used by food industry that would manufacture food via chain feeds. Then there is the Cassida CR46 which is an air compressor lubricant for the machines in the food industry that would need air in the process,
Next we have Cassida RLS1 and RLS2 which is a grease used in the food industry this grease is for lightly loaded gear boxes that are grease lubricated, Then there is the Cassida EPS2 grease this is an extreme pressure grease. This grease is recommended for use on plain and rolling element bearings, Joints ,Linkages and slides. it is also recommended for a wide range of applications, including roller element bearings as well as clay.
Then we have the Cassida GL150/GL220/GLGL320 and the GL460 These are lubricants used in enclosed Gearboxes in the food industry, and is also intended for use where Equipment manufactures Food Packaging. These oils are a high performance, anti wear gear lubricant. Specially designed for the lubrication of enclosed gears in the beverage processing industry and the food industry. Now comes the CassidaHF15/HF32/HF46/HF68. These fluids are Hydraulic Fluids. They are a high performance , anti wear multi purpose lubricant used in Hydraulic systems, Hydrostatic gears, plain and anti friction bearings, General purpose lubrication including light duty gearboxes and it is also used as a circulating oil in systems.
Finally we have the Cassida Fluid PL this is a penetrating fluid used where the acces is difficult at lubrication points, All of these products are tasteless and have a neutral odour,
The reason why these lubricants and fluids were designed is because the food industry cant have every item on their agenda of manufacture causing the customers to get sick in cases of contamination by oil that is not edible. Now I dont mean you must go and take a handful of grease and eat it, But the general idea is there that if you accidentally consumed of the grease it would not be harmful to any human or animal
There you have some insight to our products we supply.
I hope this can help anyone looking to buy of these products
If you require any other form of lubricant be it food grade or just normal lubricants. Fell free to leave me a message and i will get back to you
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Roof Erection part 3
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.comnow that you have marked out all your large trusses.It is time to start taking them into the house, unfortunately this is not a job for one person.
It might be an option to go to the nearest place where piece labour sits on the street corners.
Hire about 4 strong looking chaps to do the heavy lifting for you.
now you need to get these trusses into position, make sure that the trusses are carried into the house in the proper order otherwise you will have to take the wrong truss out again and bring in the correct one.
Lets say for instance that you have Ten big trusses. The first truss that must go on the wall must be carried in first, lets say A1 the rest of the trusses should be marked with the same letter but a different number. and so you bring the trusses in according to number and letter. This will be indicated on your erection plan by the manufacturer.
now the first truss that should be erected would be A1.
Lift the truss end onto the top of the wall, now you need to push this truss up the wall till the other end clears the wall on the otherside of the house. Dont worry about the truss breaking they are very robust and flexable. now lift the other end onto the other wall under control.
Make sure that somebody is controlling the truss at the apex. Now the truss should be able to hang freely like a pendulum.
On top of the wall you need to have at least 2 guys that are'nt scared of hieghts, one person at iether end of the truss, and each should have a nail belt with claw hamber three inch and four inch nails in their bags and a tape measure and carpenters pencils. one person needs to be on the floor with an extra wall plate with a 4 inch nail driven through it so that it sticks out on the other side. If you have scaffles it would be an aid to erect a 2 metre high tower just below where the truss is to be positioned. one person should climb up on this tower. He will have to assist in the swinging of the truss from upside down to right side up.
Now seeing as we are dealing with a tiled roof you would have to cut branderings for the men on the wall 2x2m sections each. Now the man that is at the apex of the truss will have to lift the apex up to the man on the scaffle, once he has hold of it let another person get on the scaffle with him, because they are going to have to control the truss in the upright position, until the men on the ends have had a chance to centralise the truss on the wall. make sure that the truss is of the same measurement on bothe walls and that the truss is lying exactly in the centre of the outermost mark that you have marked on the wall, Pleasre make sure you check the measurment of both men on the wall until you are sure that they can read a tape measure correctly. Not all people have the skill to read a tape measure. satisfied with the result write it in your book, Now you should brace the truss onto the wall plate, Level the truss with a spirit level and once level nail the brace into the wall plate and then into the truss.
Now go to the last truss in the group and follow the procedure above, be sure to get the truss properly aligned. Okay finished bracing now in the apex of these 2 trusses you should drive a nail in they should stand up straight. fasten a fish line to the one nail and then to the other nail you should have a clothes line now,between 2 trusses. This is going to be your guide for the alignment of your other eight trusses in the group.
Now you can start to lift all the other trusses into place, but dont put them on their marks you need to stack them against the other trusses that have been braced because if you dont you wont have space to work with the rest of the trusses. when you stack be sure to stand the trusses up as straight as possible against the other truss. Remember these things are heavy and to have eight other trusses leaning heavily on one truss could break your braceand all your hard work would have been for nothing.
It might be an option to go to the nearest place where piece labour sits on the street corners.
Hire about 4 strong looking chaps to do the heavy lifting for you.
now you need to get these trusses into position, make sure that the trusses are carried into the house in the proper order otherwise you will have to take the wrong truss out again and bring in the correct one.
Lets say for instance that you have Ten big trusses. The first truss that must go on the wall must be carried in first, lets say A1 the rest of the trusses should be marked with the same letter but a different number. and so you bring the trusses in according to number and letter. This will be indicated on your erection plan by the manufacturer.
now the first truss that should be erected would be A1.
Lift the truss end onto the top of the wall, now you need to push this truss up the wall till the other end clears the wall on the otherside of the house. Dont worry about the truss breaking they are very robust and flexable. now lift the other end onto the other wall under control.
Make sure that somebody is controlling the truss at the apex. Now the truss should be able to hang freely like a pendulum.
On top of the wall you need to have at least 2 guys that are'nt scared of hieghts, one person at iether end of the truss, and each should have a nail belt with claw hamber three inch and four inch nails in their bags and a tape measure and carpenters pencils. one person needs to be on the floor with an extra wall plate with a 4 inch nail driven through it so that it sticks out on the other side. If you have scaffles it would be an aid to erect a 2 metre high tower just below where the truss is to be positioned. one person should climb up on this tower. He will have to assist in the swinging of the truss from upside down to right side up.
Now seeing as we are dealing with a tiled roof you would have to cut branderings for the men on the wall 2x2m sections each. Now the man that is at the apex of the truss will have to lift the apex up to the man on the scaffle, once he has hold of it let another person get on the scaffle with him, because they are going to have to control the truss in the upright position, until the men on the ends have had a chance to centralise the truss on the wall. make sure that the truss is of the same measurement on bothe walls and that the truss is lying exactly in the centre of the outermost mark that you have marked on the wall, Pleasre make sure you check the measurment of both men on the wall until you are sure that they can read a tape measure correctly. Not all people have the skill to read a tape measure. satisfied with the result write it in your book, Now you should brace the truss onto the wall plate, Level the truss with a spirit level and once level nail the brace into the wall plate and then into the truss.
Now go to the last truss in the group and follow the procedure above, be sure to get the truss properly aligned. Okay finished bracing now in the apex of these 2 trusses you should drive a nail in they should stand up straight. fasten a fish line to the one nail and then to the other nail you should have a clothes line now,between 2 trusses. This is going to be your guide for the alignment of your other eight trusses in the group.
Now you can start to lift all the other trusses into place, but dont put them on their marks you need to stack them against the other trusses that have been braced because if you dont you wont have space to work with the rest of the trusses. when you stack be sure to stand the trusses up as straight as possible against the other truss. Remember these things are heavy and to have eight other trusses leaning heavily on one truss could break your braceand all your hard work would have been for nothing.
Until next time then.
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com/
Monday, May 11, 2009
oilaway: how to erect a roof
Thursday, May 7, 2009
roof erection part 2
Hi now that you have all your trusses and material that gets supplied with your roofing layout. You are ready to get started.
I hope THAT YOU HAVE HAD SOMEBODY GO UP ON THE WALL AND CLEAN MOST OF THE MORTAR OFF THE TOP OF THE BRICKS. AND SOMEONE WOULD HAVE TO GO AND NAIL DOWN THE WALL PLATE ALL ROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE HOUSE.
IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE A NOTE BOOK WHERE YOU CAN WRITE DOWN YOUR MEASUREMENTS IN.
NOW MEASURE THE HOUSE DOWN THE LENGHT OF IT ON THE INSIDE WALL. GET THE TOTAL LENGTH AND DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2. MAKE A MARK ON THE BRICKS WITH A CARPENTES PENCIL JUST BELOW THE WALL PLATE.BE SURE TO MEASURE THE OTHER LONGEST WALL NOW AS WELL AND DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2. ALSO MAKE A MARK UNDER THE WALL PLATE ON THE BRICK. REMEMBER THIS RULE OF THUMB IF YOU MEASURE THE WALL FROM EAST TO WEST, THEN THIS SAME WAY OF MEASURING WOULD APPLY TO THE OTHER WALL.
THE REASON FOR THIS IS THAT BUILDERS ARE ONLY HUMAN AND IF YOURHOUSE IS OUT OF SQUARE THEN YOU AT LEAST HAVE A STARTING POINT WHICH IS FAIRLY ACCURATE.
RIGHT NOW YOU HAVE YOUR HOUSE HALVED BY MEASUREMENT.
COUNT YOUR MAIN TRUSSES THE BIGGEST ONES, DIVIDE THESE BY 2 AS WLL.THEN DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF ROOF YOU HAVE IE TILE OR CHROMADECK.THIS STYLE WOULD DETERMINE YOUR TRUSS SPACING. TILE ROOF TRUSSES ARE NORMALLY MAXIMUM 750MM CENTRES
AND CROMADECK TRUSSES ARE NORMALLY MAXIMUM 1150MM CENTRES APART. BUT THIS MEASUREMENT IS NORMALLY ACCORDING TO THE ROOFING ENGINEERS SPECIFICATIONS. IF THIS MEASUREMENT IS NOT ON PLAN ASK THE ENGINEER TO FURNISH THIS INFORMATION.
NOW I AM GOING TO USE TILE TRUSS SPACING AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY BUT THIS WOULD APPLY TO THE OTHER STYLE TRUSSES AS WELL
GO BACK TO THE MEASUREMENT ON YOUR WALL AND DIVIDE THE 750MM MEASUREMENT BY 2 THAT IS 375MM MEASURE FROM YOUR MARK ON THE WALL 375MM AND MARK THE WALL CLEARLY SO YOU CAN SEE IT WHEN YOU STAND ON THE FLOOR DO THE SAME MEASUREMENT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MARK. MARK OUT 750MM FROM THAT MARK UNTIL ALL TRUSSES ARE ACCOUNTED FOR.
REMEMBER WHATEVER YOU DO ONE THE ONE SIDE OF YOUR HOUSE YOU REPEAT THE PROCEDURE ON THE OTHER SIDE.(DO EXACTLY THE SAME)
NOW YOU HAVE MARKED WHERE THE TRUSSES WOULD STAND MORE OR LESS YOU MIGHT HAVE TO MAKE SLIGHT ADJUSTMENTS TO YOUR MEASUREMENTS DEPENDING ON THE HOUSE BEING SQUARE.
NOW YOU NEED TO MEASURE THE SHORT WALLS OF THE HOUSE,DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2 AS WELL. THIS MEASUREMENT WILL BE THE MEASUREMENT YOU USE TO PLACE YOUR TRUSSES ACCURATELY.
NOW GO TO YOUR BIGEST TRUSSES AND MEASURE THEM ONE BY ONE.
IF YOU LOOK AT THE TRUSS , WHERE THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE TRUSS INERSECT THINK OF A RIGHT ANGLE TRIANGLE. JUST MEASURE THE BASE OF THE TRUSS AND GET YOUR CENTRE NOW MARK THE MEASUREMENT THAT YOU DIVIDED FROM YOUR SHORT WALL ON THE TRUSS FROM THE TRUSSES CENTRE TO THE OUT SIDE. FROM THE CENTRE OF THE TRUSS MARK THE OTHER SIDE TO THE OUTSIDE AS WELL. REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE WITH ALL THE BIG TRUSSES UNTIL ALL OF THEM HAVE BEEN MARKED.
PART THREE WILL FOLLOW IN DUE COURSE IF YOU NEED MORE LEAVE ME A POST
HAPPY ROOFING
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
I hope THAT YOU HAVE HAD SOMEBODY GO UP ON THE WALL AND CLEAN MOST OF THE MORTAR OFF THE TOP OF THE BRICKS. AND SOMEONE WOULD HAVE TO GO AND NAIL DOWN THE WALL PLATE ALL ROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE HOUSE.
IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE A NOTE BOOK WHERE YOU CAN WRITE DOWN YOUR MEASUREMENTS IN.
NOW MEASURE THE HOUSE DOWN THE LENGHT OF IT ON THE INSIDE WALL. GET THE TOTAL LENGTH AND DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2. MAKE A MARK ON THE BRICKS WITH A CARPENTES PENCIL JUST BELOW THE WALL PLATE.BE SURE TO MEASURE THE OTHER LONGEST WALL NOW AS WELL AND DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2. ALSO MAKE A MARK UNDER THE WALL PLATE ON THE BRICK. REMEMBER THIS RULE OF THUMB IF YOU MEASURE THE WALL FROM EAST TO WEST, THEN THIS SAME WAY OF MEASURING WOULD APPLY TO THE OTHER WALL.
THE REASON FOR THIS IS THAT BUILDERS ARE ONLY HUMAN AND IF YOURHOUSE IS OUT OF SQUARE THEN YOU AT LEAST HAVE A STARTING POINT WHICH IS FAIRLY ACCURATE.
RIGHT NOW YOU HAVE YOUR HOUSE HALVED BY MEASUREMENT.
COUNT YOUR MAIN TRUSSES THE BIGGEST ONES, DIVIDE THESE BY 2 AS WLL.THEN DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF ROOF YOU HAVE IE TILE OR CHROMADECK.THIS STYLE WOULD DETERMINE YOUR TRUSS SPACING. TILE ROOF TRUSSES ARE NORMALLY MAXIMUM 750MM CENTRES
AND CROMADECK TRUSSES ARE NORMALLY MAXIMUM 1150MM CENTRES APART. BUT THIS MEASUREMENT IS NORMALLY ACCORDING TO THE ROOFING ENGINEERS SPECIFICATIONS. IF THIS MEASUREMENT IS NOT ON PLAN ASK THE ENGINEER TO FURNISH THIS INFORMATION.
NOW I AM GOING TO USE TILE TRUSS SPACING AS AN EXAMPLE ONLY BUT THIS WOULD APPLY TO THE OTHER STYLE TRUSSES AS WELL
GO BACK TO THE MEASUREMENT ON YOUR WALL AND DIVIDE THE 750MM MEASUREMENT BY 2 THAT IS 375MM MEASURE FROM YOUR MARK ON THE WALL 375MM AND MARK THE WALL CLEARLY SO YOU CAN SEE IT WHEN YOU STAND ON THE FLOOR DO THE SAME MEASUREMENT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE MARK. MARK OUT 750MM FROM THAT MARK UNTIL ALL TRUSSES ARE ACCOUNTED FOR.
REMEMBER WHATEVER YOU DO ONE THE ONE SIDE OF YOUR HOUSE YOU REPEAT THE PROCEDURE ON THE OTHER SIDE.(DO EXACTLY THE SAME)
NOW YOU HAVE MARKED WHERE THE TRUSSES WOULD STAND MORE OR LESS YOU MIGHT HAVE TO MAKE SLIGHT ADJUSTMENTS TO YOUR MEASUREMENTS DEPENDING ON THE HOUSE BEING SQUARE.
NOW YOU NEED TO MEASURE THE SHORT WALLS OF THE HOUSE,DIVIDE THIS MEASUREMENT BY 2 AS WELL. THIS MEASUREMENT WILL BE THE MEASUREMENT YOU USE TO PLACE YOUR TRUSSES ACCURATELY.
NOW GO TO YOUR BIGEST TRUSSES AND MEASURE THEM ONE BY ONE.
IF YOU LOOK AT THE TRUSS , WHERE THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE TRUSS INERSECT THINK OF A RIGHT ANGLE TRIANGLE. JUST MEASURE THE BASE OF THE TRUSS AND GET YOUR CENTRE NOW MARK THE MEASUREMENT THAT YOU DIVIDED FROM YOUR SHORT WALL ON THE TRUSS FROM THE TRUSSES CENTRE TO THE OUT SIDE. FROM THE CENTRE OF THE TRUSS MARK THE OTHER SIDE TO THE OUTSIDE AS WELL. REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE WITH ALL THE BIG TRUSSES UNTIL ALL OF THEM HAVE BEEN MARKED.
PART THREE WILL FOLLOW IN DUE COURSE IF YOU NEED MORE LEAVE ME A POST
HAPPY ROOFING
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
how to erect a roof
first rule of Roofing fimiliarise yourself with the terms of the truss manufacturers.
1) wall plate. this is the plank that gets nailed down on top of the wall, on the inner skin of the house, flush with the edge of the brick. this planks dimensions are 38mmx76mm. the plank must be nailed down all the way around the houses outer walls. you never nail this plank on inner wall namely single brick walls. the only time that you would nail the wall plate to an inner wall is if it is a bearer wall for a cantilever truss. Remmember trusses must never rest on inner walls unless they have been designed for this purpose.
2) bottom chord. this is the bottom of the truss and is the section that will lay on the wall plate.
3) Top chord this is the section that runs up at an angle to the pitch/top of the roof.
4) king and queen posts. these are the timber sections that stand up straight tying the top and bottom chords together.
5) webbs these are the timber sections that run at an angle from queenpost to kingpost and strenghten the entire truss
6) most important rule of roofing always make shure that all trusses are standing straight lined up and plumb. Plumb meaning level from top to bottom. you can use a spirit level for this purpose or you can use a plumb bob, this is a metal weight with a sharp point hanging on fishing line or string fastened from the top of the truss.
7) sort your trusses when you get you erection plan from your roofing engineers. make sure that you have all material that is due to you according to your invoice, ask if the price you pay includes engineers inspection on completion and certificate for the structure of the trusses, because you wont get a residence certificate without it.
make sure that you have all the trusses according to your erection specifications.
That is part one. If you would like to get further information about this procedure please post a request and i will furnish you with the relevant information at no cost to you at all.
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
1) wall plate. this is the plank that gets nailed down on top of the wall, on the inner skin of the house, flush with the edge of the brick. this planks dimensions are 38mmx76mm. the plank must be nailed down all the way around the houses outer walls. you never nail this plank on inner wall namely single brick walls. the only time that you would nail the wall plate to an inner wall is if it is a bearer wall for a cantilever truss. Remmember trusses must never rest on inner walls unless they have been designed for this purpose.
2) bottom chord. this is the bottom of the truss and is the section that will lay on the wall plate.
3) Top chord this is the section that runs up at an angle to the pitch/top of the roof.
4) king and queen posts. these are the timber sections that stand up straight tying the top and bottom chords together.
5) webbs these are the timber sections that run at an angle from queenpost to kingpost and strenghten the entire truss
6) most important rule of roofing always make shure that all trusses are standing straight lined up and plumb. Plumb meaning level from top to bottom. you can use a spirit level for this purpose or you can use a plumb bob, this is a metal weight with a sharp point hanging on fishing line or string fastened from the top of the truss.
7) sort your trusses when you get you erection plan from your roofing engineers. make sure that you have all material that is due to you according to your invoice, ask if the price you pay includes engineers inspection on completion and certificate for the structure of the trusses, because you wont get a residence certificate without it.
make sure that you have all the trusses according to your erection specifications.
That is part one. If you would like to get further information about this procedure please post a request and i will furnish you with the relevant information at no cost to you at all.
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com
want to save money on diy projects
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.comPeople are always trying to save money. Well with our present financial climate, who could blame you. I currently work for an oil distribution company, namely shell products are sold by our team.
I have always admired the South Africans. They are real go getters. If the wife asked the Husband to do something, he would answer no problem, or sorted. Well the buck stops here, you husbands and wives are welcome to ask me roofing, carpentry construction refridgeration airconditioning and oil related questions, and i will try to guide you in the right direction and as cheaply as possible, yes you can believe it. I have been trained in all these fields, and i am a qualified tradesman, I had various lucrative company's however as all things in life change, so did my needs. I needed to work for a company that offers competition, and that is why I now work for Shell.
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com/
I have always admired the South Africans. They are real go getters. If the wife asked the Husband to do something, he would answer no problem, or sorted. Well the buck stops here, you husbands and wives are welcome to ask me roofing, carpentry construction refridgeration airconditioning and oil related questions, and i will try to guide you in the right direction and as cheaply as possible, yes you can believe it. I have been trained in all these fields, and i am a qualified tradesman, I had various lucrative company's however as all things in life change, so did my needs. I needed to work for a company that offers competition, and that is why I now work for Shell.
http://carpentryoil.blogspot.com/
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